By: Loree Wallace
Photography By: edifice
Cans with a bit of paint in them, take up precious storage space, downsizing into touch-up pots is not only practical but tidy.
Drill a 1/8” hole in the centre of the lid.
Screw a self-tapping Robertson screw into the hole.
Make sure to note which room the paint is from, then fill it 7/8 th of the way full.
Touching-up is made easy by backing out the screw and pouring out the desired amount of paint
You are finished painting your old house, you have followed the rules of painting soft wood and restoring your beautiful hardwood, but a year down the road you notice chips and scratches on your architraves and skirting. After rummaging around for that gallon of paint with the half sealed lid, you puncture the thick skin that has formed over the whole of the remaining paint. Then you ask yourself, “I have a quarter of paint left. What will happen two years from now when I need to do more touch ups because the lid will never seal again?”
Think ahead! After you have stood back to admire your beautiful finished paint job, have the foresight to make a touch-up pot. Purchase a 250ml paint can or two (depending how much paint you have left) and fill the cans approximately 7/8th of the way full. (Leave a little shaking room.) With a 1/8” drill-bit drill a hole in the centre of the lid, then screw a Robertson self-tapping metal screw (oversized) into the hole, and then seal the can with the lid. Be sure to label the can to show to which room the paint belongs.
When you want to such up your chips and scratches, give the little pot a good shake, and remove the screw and pour out a little bit of paint on to a foam or coated paper plate and touch-up to your heart’s content. When you are finished, simply drive the screw back into the lid, the bit of paint around the threading will now create a seal around the screw, sealing the can permanently until you need to touch-up again. This little hint can keep the paint from drying out for up to 10 years.
Loree Wallace is the co-owner of Homestead House Paint Co. of Toronto. Edifice Magazine exclusively uses their superior paint for our restoration projects and recommends the use of all of their first rate products.
Painting a Raised Panel Door
By: Loree Wallace
In the last issue we restored an early six-panel wooden door. Painting it is not as easy as one may think. If you paint across the grain, the finished product looks terrible. The raised panel door is made of many pieces of wood with grain running in different horizontal and vertical directions. By studying the door before you paint, you can see how to follow the grain to provide a beautiful finished coat.
The graphic of the door to the upper left indicates the order of the sections in which to paint. The trim (at #1) around the panels should be the first to be painted following the grain both vertically and horizontally (see direction of arrows). The centre raised (or flat) panel (at #2) is painted next – again painting in the direction of the grain. The vertical centre stile(s) (at #3) broken by the horizontal rails is next, followed by the horizontal rails (at #4). Finish off with the vertical hanging and locking stiles (at #5).
The idea is to allow the grain to be accentuated in the wooden door not masked; this allows texture and interest and keeps the door historically correct. If you have a straight flat-ledged style door, you will simply follow the grain of the wood. Study the door and it will tell you how it should be painted.
Never paint an exterior door in-situ, always remove the door from its hinges. Painting a door in direct sunlight will blister the paint because it dries too fast.
On an exterior door you should always use an oil based primer first, and provide several coats of traditional oil as a finish coat.
Remember good preparation makes for a great paint job, providing long-lasting results!
Homestead House Paint Co.