Inspired by Fall {Faux Finishings}

confederategray mustardFall is in the air, and we are inspired by the hues that nature is providing!

Warm yellows in the trees, followed by the earlier dusk skies were the inspiration for this pallet!

confederate gray mustard1Buttermilk, Mustard, and Confederate Gray were the colors chosen in our exclusive acrylic line.

The benefits of the paint are infinite, but a consumer favorite is it’s ease in application, as well as special finishes you can create!

adu-16 copyWe want to show you how beautifully the colors can be layered to create a fuax finish, as well as incredible depth and texture. Don’t be limited by a flat one color finish, but open a couple colors and start creating texture with ease!

confederate gray mustard 2{Piece painted by Abbe’ of http://www.alldolledupwichita.com}

{Photo copyright by http://jloganphotography.com/)

Painting Radiator Covers in Milk Paint!

Last summer I had the pleasure of painting custom made Radiator covers for a historic century home. I was so pleased to take on this job as it really fit with the heritage aspect of milk paints, and the finish turned out to be spectacular!

Milk Paint is ideal as it does not react to heat and is breathable, therefore never leading to potential peeling issues. It was a scorcher of a day, over 100 degrees and I was painting this outside in the garage! Not to worry though, as Milk Paint doesn’t react to temperatures when painting, where it’s cold or super hot, all it will do is slightly affect drying time. Since Milk Paint in synthetic free, there’s no “curing” time as in acrylics or oil paints, when it’s dry, it’s dry! Usually about 30 minutes between coats and then you can top coat!

1st Coat

 

You can see here the first coat applied. I had a very nice mixture made up with excellent coverage for this off white colour. If your paint colour is too transparent, or thin looking, simply add more powder and mix again until you get this type of coverage.

 

Here you can see I’ve put one coat of milk paint on almost the entire left side of the piece. the right side is un stained or treated before applying the paint. I didn’t stain as there was to be no distressing to these pieces. There was no primer required for this as it was bare wood allowing for the milk paint to soak in a bind with the wood fibers nicely.

She’s a beauty!

I found it helpful to lean down the radiators and spray the middle parts as there was a lot of detailing that was very difficult to achieve with just a brush. I just used a simple spray bottle typically used to water plants- it didn’t gunk up or clog the spray gun at all. This all has one coat of milk paint. Typically you will need 2-3 coats depending on your mixture.

 

Limewash

 

 

A Close up shot of one coat of milk paint. This could be considered a lime wash, or stain.

 

 

 

 

Voila! The finished piece.

I used a Milk Paint wood stain, the finished it with Hemp Oil as a protective non peeling top coat.   A Close up of the finished product!

Easy Mixing!

Milk Paint can sometimes be daunting to use, as there is a little more “hands on” shall we call it to create the perfect consistency with milk paint. I like to think that this adds to the whole character of milk paint and gives yourself a true sense of accomplishment.

An easy tool, that you probably already have at hand is a latte frother! You can pick theseup anywhere for a very low cost and is a fantastic way to mix the paint, perhaps for slightly smaller project such as dressers, coffee tables etc. If you’re working on larger projects such as Hutches, Kitchen Cabinets etc, you may want to invest in a slightly larger hand held immersion blender. Lots of second hand stores have used blenders for sale!

Painting a Raised Panel Door

Painting a Raised Panel Door

By: Loree Wallace

In the last issue we restored an early six-panel wooden door. Painting it is not as easy as one may think. If you paint across the grain, the finished product looks terrible. The raised panel door is made of many pieces of wood with grain running in different horizontal and vertical directions. By studying the door before you paint, you can see how to follow the grain to provide a beautiful finished coat.
The graphic of the door to the upper left indicates the order of the sections in which to paint. The trim (at #1) around the panels should be the first to be painted following the grain both vertically and horizontally (see direction of arrows). The centre raised (or flat) panel (at #2) is painted next – again painting in the direction of the grain. The vertical centre stile(s) (at #3) broken by the horizontal rails is next, followed by the horizontal rails (at #4). Finish off with the vertical hanging and locking stiles (at #5).
The idea is to allow the grain to be accentuated in the wooden door not masked; this allows texture and interest and keeps the door historically correct. If you have a straight flat-ledged style door, you will simply follow the grain of the wood. Study the door and it will tell you how it should be painted.
Happy Painting…..Loree

Loree Says
Never paint an exterior door in-situ, always remove the door from its hinges. Painting a door in direct sunlight will blister the paint because it dries too fast.
On an exterior door you should always use an oil based primer first, and provide several coats of traditional oil as a finish coat.
Remember good preparation makes for a great paint job, providing long-lasting results!

Loree Wallace
Homestead House Paint Co.
www.homesteadhouse.ca