Soldier Boy- Using bonding agent

Who doesn’t love a good before and after?

Today’s post is featuring our milk paint line using Bedford and Soldier Blue on this vintage tall boy.

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And After:
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Here are some tips on achieving a smooth milk paint finish:
1. Look at the surface in which you are painting.
Is it sealed, shiny, or porous? This will determine if you need to add a bonding agent or not.
Milk paint will naturally chip and resist on previously finished surfaces.
On this particular piece, bonding agent was not added, do to the fact that the piece was fairly worn, and porous.

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2. Are you ok with some chipping or natural distressing? Milk paint gives old finished pieces a naturally worn and aged look where the paint might resist on areas that were sealed.
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After you paint is dry, smoothing out the finish with a fine grit sanding paper or block (we recommend 220 or higher) will give your piece a smooth finish ready for hemp oil or one of our finishing waxes.
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Milk Paint over old Latex

C-28 copyDo you have an old piece of furniture with tired, worn old latex paint that you are itching to give a new fresh face, without compromising the unique primitive finish? Milk paint over old paint gives you a great authentic, worn, two tone finish, with just 3 easy steps, without needing to strip the old paint!

1. Paint

2. Slightly Sand

3. Wax

This little dresser had a coat of old worn creamy latex paint, complete with water stains, chips, and lots of grunge.

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A coat of Homestead Blue, all over gave the piece a new life in a matter of minutes.

After the paint has dried, you will get some cracking, chipping, and flaking where the paint has resisted the old paint finish.
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After you loosen up any chipping paint- you can distress more if you would like.
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Finish up with antiquing wax, to give you that worn aged look. Look at all that great texture, that you find with great primitive finishes, easily achieved with Homestead House Milk Paint!
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New Color, Old Look!

 

Furniture Paint {Review}

At Homestead House, we are constantly striving to create products that will benefit every level of painter, as well as every type of project. We have been fine tuning our new “Furniture Paint” that is now ready to order! We asked our product tester, and MMSMP primary educator, Abbe Doll of All Dolled Up, to try her hand at our new line. The look she created was stunning, and we hope you will enjoy her review!

No sanding. No Prep. No Top Coat needed. Click here to order

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As a professional furniture painter, I have found that it is very easy to become quite particular with paint, brushes, and waxes.

Things like how the paint glides on, sticks, and it’s versatility are very important to me.

When asked to try out Homestead Houses “Furniture Paint”, I was anxious to see how this liquid line would stand to my tests!

I had the perfect piece waiting to be transformed. An older French Provencal buffet with gorgeous details, and curves, finished in a glossy yellow, with wait for it… black and orange splatter.
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From a far it wasn’t as obtrusive, but up-close, it was hideous. The high gloss and shine didn’t make it a good candidate for Milk paint, so I was anxious to use Furniture Paint.

I chose “Champlain” for the bulk of the piece, and wanted to play around with mixing the colors as well. I chose “Algonquin and Slate Blue” mixed equally to create a soft muted gray/blue.
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The paint mixed beautifully and opened up doors to all sorts of creations in my head.
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I started by painting all the trim on the piece with my blue mixture.

The paint glided on effortlessly, and dried in less than an hour.

It adhered well, and I found the coverage to be top notch.

 

After the trim was painted- I did the body of the piece in Champlain.
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Due to the nature of a white based paint- I did need two coats to cover the yellowish green finish- but within 2 coats it was gone!

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I recommend any distressing that you chose to do, be done soon after the paint dries. This paint is very durable and distressing the finish is difficult to do once it is cure!
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After the piece was painted- I chose to wax on some Miss Mustard Seed’s Antiquing wax to age it a bit. I love how the wax settled in the texture of the paint- it created the perfect age and dimension.
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The old blue fabric was replaced with burlap, and the hardware replaced with chunky glass knobs. I chose to keep the back plates on the hardware- also painted with Furniture Paint. The paint adhered wonderfully to the brass as well.
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This paint not only transformed this piece, but blew me away on how easy it was to paint this high gloss buffet.
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No sanding, no prep, no priming. The results were breath taking.
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Photo credit www.Jloganphotography.com

Cottage Charm {Acadia Pear & Sturbridge White}

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We have a makeover for you today! This corner hutch was desperate for a makeover! Although out dated, the great lines and details of this piece were brought to life with Acadia Pear on the inside paneling, and the Sturbridge White on the rest.
BEFORE:

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AFTER:
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Inspired by the coziness of a country cottage, these colors together gave this piece a fresh new face, using the flat finish Acrylic line kept the finish authentic to the styling of the piece. No prep work was required to paint over this shiny finish, just a couple of coats of each color. *Note that lighter colors might require more coats for coverage.
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adu-32 copy{Piece Painted by Abbe Of http://www.alldolledupwichita.com}

{Photo copyright by http://jloganphotography.com/}

Renfrew Blue

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Have you noticed the trends this season? Jewel tones are in, and your wardrobe isn’t the only thing that will be richened up by these regal colors

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Let us introduce you to Renfrew Blue: a deep, rich, aged teal, that will give your piece a pop of color, yet remain a classic for the years to come.
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adu-21 copy (1){Piece painted by Abbe’ of All Dolled Up}

Milk Paint Mixer Tutorial

Introducing the New Homestead House Milk Paint Mixer! These little guys make mixing your milk paint an cinch! Using only 2 AA batteries, they are compact and portable for all your mixing needs!

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These little mixers are small but they really pack a punch! There are some tricks we would like to share with you so that you can get a beautiful mix each time.

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When using a mixer, measure out your water first. To prevent a clumpy mess at the bottom of your cup, let the water be on the bottom, and the powder on top. Here we are mixing a batch of “Ocean.”

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Some milk paint will sink to the bottom immediately- not to worry- it will still mix easier this way!

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The mixer will stop automatically when you apply pressure. This works great at controlling your mix from getting too thin by pushing the mixer up and down in short little pounces up and down. Each fast spin will grab and mix the paint- without over mixing.

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Make sure your mixer is OFF when you dip it in initially- this will prevent it from throwing powder every where and splashing all over you!

 

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It doesn’t take long at all for a small batch such as this (approx. 1/4
cup) to become thoroughly mixed.
Over mixing will turn your milk paint into a latte and you can build a tall airy head to your paint if you are not cautious!

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If your paint is feeling too thick, you can slowly pour in water while mixing and watch your paint thin down. Think making pancake batter…

Now for all you who hate to clean love to get to painting, this is for you:

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Have a separate cup of clean water- dip your mixer in right after mixing and turn it on and hold it in spinning for a few seconds. Pull it out and it will be clean as a whistle!

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*Make sure you do this soon, so the milk paint doesn’t harden in the coil.

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After you have mixed your paint, you will notice some air bubbles collecting on the top, possibly more than when you have hand stirred.

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Don’t worry- you can start painting- but might see some air in your paint, just work it out with your brush.

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If you want to err on the side of caution, just wait a few minutes and you will notice the larger bubbles start to dissipate and will be gone after a few minutes.

Can’t wait to try it for yourself? Get the New Homestead House Milk Paint Mixer (used in the pictures above) at $6 a pop.

*** Thank you to Abbe Doll, our Primary Educator for this tutorial, and JLogan Photography for the photos. To see more tutorials for Abbe, Visit her blog here. 

Please do not copy.

 

White Wax

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White Wax

White Wax is also a fine museum quality wax is based on an old family recipe.  It is made from beeswax with a little carnauba wax and is then tinted with a creamy white, perfect for creating a faded, washed or limed look on a piece of painted furniture.  It is easy to apply, provides a durable finish with a beautiful luster and has almost no odor.

How to use this product: Use a clean cotton cloth or brush to apply wax in a thin layer, working into recesses of carved details or surface imperfections.  Wipe away excess, allowing wax that has built up in recesses to remain.  Allow it to dry for 3-5 minutes.  Buff to a shine with a clean lint-free cotton cloth.  This product may be applied directly over dry milk paint or clear wax and does not require an additional finish.  Clean brush with soap and warm water.

Caravans Painted in Historical Colours !

Aren’t these simply gorgeous! What a great project to work on and a great way to travel !

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Fort York Red and Bayberry

Fort York Red and Bayberry

~Daphne’s vision~

Whether you build your caravan yourself or we help you, my goal is to foster your creativity and bring your dream to life.

 

Daphne says “I had to add boards to the dark green (waterloo green) caravan several years after I first built it.  The colour matched perfectly, even though the original caravan had been outside all year around.  Impressive!”

 

 

Our Exterior Paints really stand the test of time through weathering and sun. “The other reason I use these colours is they always look natural outside, so the caravans look as if they belong wherever they are placed.”- Daphne

 

 

 

 

For more information on the Caravans visit

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http://daphnescaravans.com/

Paint by The Number – What a Dip

What a Dip

By: Loree Wallace

Painting new cedar or pine shake? For long-lasting results dip the shakes in paint prior to installation (coating both sides have proved to give extra life to shakes). Set up a drip collection system so there is less waste, as the paint drips off. Use a paintbrush about 15 minutes after you dip to brush away drips and runs on the end of the shakes.
You will need to decide if you want to dip them once or twice. It is advisable to do the first coat with a primer and the second coat using 100%Acrylic Latex. This particular paint product expands and contracts and therefore lasts many years in our harsh environment. After they are dry nail the shakes up with the painted area exposed

Above: A wallpaper tray and clothes-pins make a perfect drip-catch system. Set aside on the edge of a large table after brushing off excess paint to free-up the drip tray

Paint by The Numbers

Colour It Up!

By: Loree Wallace
Photography By: Cooper

Enjoy exploring older neighbor-hoods filled with such buildings as churches and homes. I like looking at the older homes since they have so much character. Some of the houses in such areas are often deteriorating through neglect. The fabric of those that have been maintained, however, hardly shows the passing of the years. I pay particular attention to the colours used, as this is my special interest.

Some of these old houses look very boring because of the lack of colour on the painted exterior. For instance, recently I noticed a brownish-red brick “Queen Anne” that had the window trim and front door painted in a colour similar to that of the brick. Oh! And then I noticed that the same brown-red colour was on the fascia and ginger-bread features! At a distance, there was no part of the house that stood out. The closer I got, the more I realized there were a ton of architectural features that were not emphasized! Worse yet, some other houses in the area had the similar blasé palette. Was there a deal on brown and beige paint at the time, I wonder?

Why do we do this? Especially at a time when we can get any colour imaginable. I think it’s time to bring back colour, to show how much we appreciate our old homes particularly all the interesting architectural details which are lost amidst a blur of dull colour.  We should accentuate the unique features of these old styles.  Let’s spice it up a bit, shall we? Is repainting the outside of your home in your near future? Researching everything from what type of paint to apply to what colours to use is no easy task.  You might want to use colours that are appropriate to the time period of your house.

Then, of course, comes the challenge of combining them so that you use a distinct feature colour along with a couple of accent colours.

A meeting with a colour consultant who specializes in exteriors of historic homes could be worth every penny in saving time and keeping the whole process focused. If you plan to proceed on your own, start by gathering colour chips and pictures of painted houses that appeal to you. Then you might draw a quick sketch of your houses and using coloured pencils, doodle some ideas to help narrow down your selections. You can then purchase small-size cans to paint large colour swatches, using cardboard, for example. Lean these painted swatches against the house and look at the effect from a distance. You might find yourself saying, “that’s not what I thought it would look like!” It is amazing how different a colour can look in the store from its effect when seen out in the actual setting. Most of this difference is due to light: for instance, a cream colour that you choose inside may appear as an off-white outside. You might have pushed aside some colours earlier on, thinking they were too dark, whereas outside they could be just right. So don’t be afraid to show some deep bold colour for big detail or, possibly, multi colours that are similar to show more detail. The idea is to use colour to celebrate the unique features of your house and remember to use a good quality paint for protection.

Copyright 2009 Edifice Old Home Magazine All Rights Reserved